Every summer when I was a teenager, we’d escape the Arizona heat and spend a couple weeks on the California beaches, and I fell in love, not only with the beauty and the nice cool weather, but with the ocean. I swore when I moved to California someday, I’d learn to surf. I did in fact move to California, but never followed up on the surfin’ thing. It took me twenty years, but finally my pal El Marko and his son Haven convinced me it was time. I’d been boogie boarding a bit over the years (and got my mom hooked!) but still hadn’t tackled the surf board. El Marko always says, “Don’t postpone joy” –so I didn’t. I finally donned my wet suit and hit the water with a surf board.
And of course, if I was going to have an adventure, my girl Bondorella had to come along!
Five thirty in the morning, I fired the old girl up and we headed to San Onofre State Beach at the southern end of Orange County. Jason and Doug scoped out the waves when we got there and weren’t too excited.
They weren’t quite as big as expected (bad for them, good for me!), but we figured since we’d driven all the way down there, we might as well get in.
Mark, who’s been surfing forever, of course caught lots of waves and even did a headstand–although I didn’t have a camera in hand when he did it.
As for the surfin’ part of this adventure for me, well… the water was SUPER cold. I’m talking body-numbing cold. I did get out there, and with Mark’s help, caught a little wave and got to my knees… just enough to set the hook. My fine teacher insisted I was shivering too much and that we needed to go in–especially considering there weren’t any waves. I wanted to try again, but hey… can’t argue with teacher, right? I seriously want to give it a go when the water’s not quite as frigid, and Haven is determined I’ll get to my feet next time.
Once we got out of the water, the young uns decided to dig a hole… a deep hole. When they asked if we’d bury them in the hole, we–like the mature adults we are–said SURE! Mark grabbed a bucket and went to work until they were buried up to their necks.
Doug took us for a tour of the local surf shops.
And then he gave Jason and I some pointers on walking the board. Nice form, eh?
Bondorella looks pretty cute with a surf board in the back, don’t you think?
So… there it is. My grand surfin’ adventure. Bondorella and I had a mighty fine time. Thanks to my pals Mark, Haven, Jason, Doug and Alex for such a swell (har har) day!