Every summer when I was a teenager, we’d escape the Arizona heat and spend a couple weeks on the California beaches, and I fell in love, not only with the beauty and the nice cool weather, but with the ocean. I swore when I moved to California someday, I’d learn to surf. I did in fact move to California, but never followed up on the surfin’ thing. It took me twenty years, but finally my pal El Marko and his son Haven convinced me it was time. I’d been boogie boarding a bit over the years (and got my mom hooked!) but still hadn’t tackled the surf board. El Marko always says, “Don’t postpone joy” –so I didn’t. I finally donned my wet suit and hit the water with a surf board.
And of course, if I was going to have an adventure, my girl Bondorella had to come along!
Five thirty in the morning, I fired the old girl up and we headed to San Onofre State Beach at the southern end of Orange County. Jason and Doug scoped out the waves when we got there and weren’t too excited.
They weren’t quite as big as expected (bad for them, good for me!), but we figured since we’d driven all the way down there, we might as well get in.
Mark, who’s been surfing forever, of course caught lots of waves and even did a headstand–although I didn’t have a camera in hand when he did it.
Jason, who is new to surfing, hung in the longest in the freezing cold water but didn’t catch a lot in the relatively flat surf.
As for the surfin’ part of this adventure for me, well… the water was SUPER cold. I’m talking body-numbing cold. I did get out there, and with Mark’s help, caught a little wave and got to my knees… just enough to set the hook. My fine teacher insisted I was shivering too much and that we needed to go in–especially considering there weren’t any waves. I wanted to try again, but hey… can’t argue with teacher, right? I seriously want to give it a go when the water’s not quite as frigid, and Haven is determined I’ll get to my feet next time.
Once we got out of the water, the young uns decided to dig a hole… a deep hole. When they asked if we’d bury them in the hole, we–like the mature adults we are–said SURE! Mark grabbed a bucket and went to work until they were buried up to their necks.
Doug took us for a tour of the local surf shops.
And then he gave Jason and I some pointers on walking the board. Nice form, eh?
Bondorella looks pretty cute with a surf board in the back, don’t you think?
So… there it is. My grand surfin’ adventure. Bondorella and I had a mighty fine time. Thanks to my pals Mark, Haven, Jason, Doug and Alex for such a swell (har har) day!
Until next time…
Later gators!!
I made the same promise to myself 30 years ago and Rodney said he was going to get his new wet suit then give me a call… Think he’ll make a good teacher?
PS I am quite impressed how good She looks carrying yer Bd. Come to think of it that was what she was made for not just the milk cans my step-grandfather used to tote to the creamery after we hand milked the herd. Now I remember why I love So Cal and hated the great lakes!
Thanks, Bill! And yeah… I think Rodney would be a great teacher!
It’s not likely the water is warming up anytime soon. Like Marko’s perspective, “Don’t postpone joy.” Sounds sagely to me. Hit me up in Spring when you’re ready to give it another try. I’d love to join you and your friends.
Yes, Mark is a very wise man. When I met him fifteen years ago or so, he had a ’59 El Camino with a “Don’t Postpone Joy” bumper sticker, and the phrase fits him perfectly. For sure we’ll let you know next time we’d go out! They’re planning a surf/camp/motorcycle weekend at San Alejo for later this month. I’ll let you know if I end up going and maybe you can come down and join us! Thanks for readin’!